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The Song of Fragrance

Updated: Aug 23, 2023


Like a musical chord, every fragrance blend (or “accord”) is made up of different notes – top, heart, and base – creating a new, harmonious, synergistic fragrance.


The word "Synergy" is defined as the interaction or cooperation of two or more organizations, substances, or other agents to produce a combined effect greater than the sum of their separate effects.

Synergy between essential oils is the combination of two or more essential oils creating a blend that is greater than the sum of their separate effects.

The Olfactory or Fragrance Pyramid

The Olfactory or Fragrance Pyramid is a classification of olfactory notes that make up a fragrance. Fragrance notes contribute to the change in fragrance over time, from its first to its lasting impression.


Fragrance is classified according to the degree of volatility, the evaporation rate, of the essential oil.

The word ‘volatile’ is from the Latin word ‘volaire’ which means to fly away.

Essential oils are highly volatile and do not evaporate at the same rate. The rate of volatility (evaporation) determines how long the scent will exist when released in to the air and how long it takes for the body to absorb the essential oil when applied to the skin. It is important to note that top, middle and base notes do not determine the length of time essential oils stay in the body. This is determined by the individual and their metabolic rate.


Volatility is determined by molecular structure.

Head

Heart

Base

Also referred to as

Top

Middle, Body, Bouquet

Bottom, Drydown, Fixative

Volatility

High

Medium

Low

Molecular Size

smaller, more volatile molecules

a blend of different sized molecules in more or less equal proportions

a predominance of larger, heavier molecules

Evaporation Rate / Average Duration (high quality, unadulterated essential oils)

5-15/30 minutes

15/20 - 60 minutes; up to 4 hours

60 minutes or longer; up to 1-2 days

Head

Heart

Base

Purpose

Provides the first impression of the blend fragrance

Forms the body and heart; the essence of the blend fragrance, the "soul" or "personality"; ensure the continuity of the top notes and prepares transition and buffering of the stronger base notes

Anchors the fragrance providing depth, richness, and complexity

Percentage of the Blend, %

30

50 - They are the most complex and great for bringing together the fresh top and the warm base notes

20 - They are perfect for giving lasting power to fragrances and warm up the lighter top and mid notes

Fragrance Families

Citrus, Floral, Herb

Floral, Fruit, Spice, Light Wood

Wood (Bark, Resin, Root)

Scent Descriptors

Fresh, sweet, energizing, uplifting

Warm, soft, balancing

Balsamic, musky, woodsy

Effects

Spirit body

Emotional body

Physical body

Some essential oils have similar properties and their volatility can be classed together; however, they are generally classified by a sole defining note.


Head

Middle

​Base

Anise

Basil

Balsam

Bay Laurel

Bergamot

Cinnamon

Clary Sage

Coriander

Eucalyptus

Grapefruit

Hyssop Juniper

Lavender

Lemon

Lemongrass

Lime

Mandarin Melissa

Neroli

Niaouli

Orange

Peppermint

Rosewood

Sage

Spearmint

Tangerine

Tea Tree

Thyme

Verbena


Allspice Anise Balsam Bergamot Black Pepper Blue Tansy

Cardamom

Chamomile

Cinnamon

Citronella

Clary Sage

Clove

Cypress Eucalyptus

Fennel

Geranium Ginger

Helichrysum

Ho Wood

Hyssop

Jasmine

Helichrysum

Juniper

Lavender

Marjoram

Melissa

Myrtle Myrrh Neroli

Nutmeg

Parsley Peppermint

Pine Rose

Rosmary Rosewood

Tea Tree

Thyme

Violet leaf

Yarrow

Ylang Ylang

Sage


​Angelica Balsam

Cedarwood

Cinnamon

Copaiba

Frankincense

Ginger Helichrysum

Jasmine

Myrrh

Oakmoss

Patchouli

Peppermint

Rose

Rosewood

Sandalwood

Turmeric

Valerian

Vanilla

Vetiver

Ylang Ylang

Blending with Fragrance Notes


The key to a harmonious synergistic blend is balanced notes.


Here are a several commonly used blending ratios:

  • 3:5:2 - 3 parts top note, 5 parts middle note, and 2 parts base note

  • 2:2:1 - 2 parts top note, 2 parts middle note, and 1 part base note

  • 1:1:1 - 1 part top note, 1 part middle note, and 1 part base note

  • Once you have added your essential oils to a glass bottle it is important to swirl and shake the bottle for 2-3 minutes to allow the essential oils to blend together.

  • After creating your blend allow it to rest and the fragrance to develop for 24-48 hours (or longer) before use.

Choose a woody base note, a floral middle note, and a citrusy top note and create a blend using one of the above ratios.

Notice how the scent unfolds over time.

What do you notice?

How do the scents affect your memories, emotions, and feelings.

Note: If you are applying the blend topically, keep in mind that scent can be affected by skin pH.


Humans can distinguish more than 1 trillion scents and our sense of smell is far more discriminating than previously thought. Source: Humans Can Identify More Than 1 Trillion Smells | National Institutes of Health (NIH)


Scent molecules affect you subconsciously even when you’re no longer consciously aware of them.


 

Sources

Notes (fragrantica.com)

Perfume Search by Color (fragrantica.com)

Perfume Groups (fragrantica.com)

Understanding Fragrance Notes: Top, Middle and Base – 1502 Candle Co.

What Is The Fragrance Pyramid? Perfume Notes, Composition & Life-Cycle - (bespokeunit.com)

What Are Top, Middle and Base Notes in Perfume? A Pyramid From Fresh to Deep scents - Experimental Perfume Club

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